Monday, January 31, 2011

Hold the Salt

Have you noticed the explosion of new salts available now? Every specialty store has them and even some of the supermarkets are carrying a few gourmet brands. It seems they are everywhere. It can be interesting and exciting to study them, where they are from, what unique flavor they lend to food, are they used while cooking or as a finish salt. And the colors; a rainbow of beautiful choices. I've been hooked several times and am now the proud owner of all kinds of salts I never used before. Now the fun begins. How does it change the taste of a dish? This is called playing with your food, and I like it. I love to get all those little jars out and decide which one gets the honor of sitting on my food today.

Beside the flavor, and size of the grains, there are health reasons to be excited about the salt that is now widely available. We often hear bad things about salt and that is because table salt is refined and most people eat processsed food which is loaded with salt. There are 84 trace minerals in salt but 82 of these have been removed from table salt leaving only sodium and chloride. Not good.

Sea salt, however, contains all the trace minerals we all need in our diet. Celtic sea salt nourishes our body with the minerals we need as it contains all 84 trace minerals. Many wellness doctors say that everyone needs 1 tsp of sea salt per day. This salt should be in everyone's pantry. While you are there
do yourself a favor and get rid of that table salt. Your body will thank you.

It is fun to experiment with the different salts. It's surprising how different foods can taste with various salts. I am proud to say that my pantry now contains the following salts: kosher, fine sea salt, course sea salt, pink himalyan, maldon, celtic, fleur de sel, truffle salt, and alderwood smoked salt. Use them all and look forward to finding more varieties in the future.

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Lemon Peel Powder


It is rare that I get to learn something new in the kitchen so when I find something that excites me I have to share it. I had this recipe in my "someday" pile and finally pulled it out to give it a try. (The someday pile is getting bigger and bigger so I think it is time to try some new things!)

Those of you who know me know how much I love lemon so of course this recipe was right up my alley. If you looked in my cookbooks you would be astounded at how many recipes I have for dishes with lemon.

The lemon peel powder is a recipe that fascinates me. To take something like a lemon and turn it in to a powder that will then be on your counter ready to use any time you want is fascinating. Lemon that doesn't have to be fresh yet it is always at the ready. How cool is that? I can't wait to try it and report back to you on all the ways I have used it.

I am sorry to say that I neglected to take any photo's of the process for this but here is the general recipe:

Organic Lemons, 1 or several (I used 3 meyer lemons because they are my fav)

Using a sharp vegetable peeler peel off the peel in ribbons. Try not get any of the white pitch as it is bitter. Arrange the peels on a baking sheet cut side up. Put them in a dry place for 2 days and allow them to dry. As they dry they will curl up.

OR

Preheat your oven to 250 degrees then turn the oven off and place the sheet of lemons in the oven for several hours. This speeds up the process.

Once they are extremely dry they are ready to pulverize. You can do this a couple of ways. You can use a mortar and pestle and some muscle to crush them. That technique seemed like too much work to me. I tried using the food processor and the pieces of lemon just spun around in the machine and no pulverizing action was happening. I then got out my coffee grinder and that worked perfectly. It is a more confined space and they get ground up pretty quickly. Plus I could see what was going on so I could pulse it until I got it all to the powder stage.

Once they are ground up you should end up with a powder. Put it in a spice jar with a lid and keep in a cool dry place. If you don't use it very often you can keep it in the refrig to prolong the life. I have it next to my stove so that when I am cooking I can see it and it will remind me to try it in various dishes. I think there are many dishes you could use it in such as soups, pasta, and vegetables.

I hope you give it a try. If you do and what to share your experience please send me an email.

Thursday, November 4, 2010

Making Ciabatta



Is that a beautiful loaf or what?

Fall is in the air. Thoughts of root vegetables and comfort food fill my mind. I no longer lust after juicy summer tomatoes but rather crave squash and meat and potatoes and the like. Like bread. Yep. Homemade bread, still warm out of the oven with a slather of butter. Just like that. Nothing more. It doesn't get much better than that. It is so gratifying to bake the bread and then to be able to eat it right out of the oven. Bread I made. When I first made this bread I would just stand over the bread and make ohing sounds. Now that I have had more practice I actually have some self control and can wait for dinner or at least until my husband gets home so we can have some together.

I love Ciabatta. It is the perfect bread. It's hard on the outside, but soft on the inside. It has lots of air bubbles which help to make the bread light and airy. I use it quite often to make crostini but I also love it toasted for breakfast. It tastes good alone or with stuff on it. It also freezes very well. If I buy a loaf I immediately cut it up and put it in a freezer bag and freeze it. That way I can pull out a slice at a time and it always tastes fresh when I want it.

What bothers me is that a nice artisan loaf of bread is getting close to 5 bucks these days. It occurred to me that this bread is really only flour and water. For 5 bucks??? Hum. For years I had a wish that I could make bread myself but after taking a couple of bread classes and buying several bread cookbooks I wasn't much closer to making anything I really wanted to eat.

Then one day I was watching America's Test Kitchen and they were making ciabatta. Fool proof ciabatta. Yea right! I had heard that before. I sat there watching every step very closely. I had recorded the show and proceeded to watch it a couple more times over the next couple of weeks. I finally sat down with a pad of paper and wrote down all the instructions and decided to get in the kitchen and give it a try. They were right, it was fool proof. I had success on my first loaf. But it was not quite good enough for me so I made it again and again and again. I am now happy to say that I think I have perfected this recipe. I can get in the kitchen and whip up a loaf of ciabatta like it's nothing. That being the case I have been making a loaf a week. That's about how long it lasts with two of us in the house.

The one thing about this recipe that you need to know is that you must start the biga (starter)the night before. I will typically do this on either Friday and Saturday night before bed depending on my day the next day. You have to be home for several hours to perform all the steps and get it baked. So plan ahead.

I am sure you can probably go on the America's Test Kitchen web site and pull up the recipe, which I would recommend. I have included the notes I took from the show below. I made a couple of slight changes to the instructions so if you dowload the recipe there will a couple differnet directions. You will need a pizza stone and the bread will be baked on a sheet of parchment paper. In addition I always use a kitchen scale to measure the ingredients when I bake. It is important that the ingredients be exact and the only way to accomplish that is to use a scale.

Ingredients:
Biga: 5 oz all purpose flour
1/8 tsp active dry yeast
4 oz water - room temp

Bread:
Biga
10 oz all purpose flour
1/2 tsp active dry yeast
1 1/2 tsp sea salt
6 oz water - slightly warm
2 oz milk - slightly warm

To make the biga: Add water to mixer bowl with paddle attachment. Sprinkle yeast over water and allow to dissolve. Turn machine on low and add the flour. Work for 1 minute. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and allow to sit overnight or at least 8 hours.

To make the bread: In mixer with paddle attachment add water, sprinkle with yeast. Allow to dissolve then add the rest of the ingredients. Turn mixer on low and allow to come together for about 1 minute. Dough should be sticky. Increase speed to medium low for about 4 minutes. At this point it should start to pull away from the side of the bowl. Change to a dough hook and mix on high for about 10 minutes. All of these steps are building the structure of the dough. Cover with plastic wrap and allow to double in size, about 1 hour.

Spray a large rubber spatula with cooking spray. Turn the dough on to itself starting at the outside of the bowl pulling into center. Do this all the way around the bowl about 6 to 8 times taking care not to deflate the dough more than necessary. Cover and allow to rise 30 minutes. This process helps to develop the air holes you want in the bread. Repeat this process. Allow to rise until doubled in size, about 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. It is important that the oven be very hot.

Place pizza stone in center of the over and preheat to 450 degrees. Cut a piece of parchment paper the size of the pizza stone and then sprinkle with flour. Turn the dough onto the paper and pull gently to form a large square, taking care not to totally deflate. Do not allow the dough to take in more flour, you want it sticky. Slide parchment paper with dough on to pizza stone and spray with water. Bake 5 minutes then spray with water again. Bake 22 more minutes or until center temp is 250. Total cooking time is about 27 minutes.

Allow to cool for one hour.

A word about dough rising time. The temperate of your kitchen is going to determine how quickly or slowly the dough rises. I have grantie counter tops so if I leave the bowl of dough on the counter the temperature is so cold that the dough does not rise as it should. Therefore, I have to put the bowl on something else to allow it to rise properly. When a recipe gives a time for rising it is only an estimate. You will need to adjust as you watch the dough rise to catch it at exactly the right time. This comes with practice.

Repeat this process once a week and start counting all the money you are going to save!

Monday, May 17, 2010

Sardine Crostini



I have wanted to try sardines for many years now, having read several articles about them, and seen many recipes and television shows about how good they are, and how good they are for you. I was somewhat awe struck with the idea and a bit intimidated.
I had this impression however, that they were going be very salty strong little fishes, I guess maybe I was thinking they tasted more like anchovies, which I love, but they are used sparingly. I managed to purchase a can of sardines at a Spanish market I found last year and the can remained in my pantry until last night. I must have finally been in the mood.....it was a warm spring evening, we were going to open a good bottle of wine, and play cards on the balcony. That always gets my brain working, what we need is good appetizer to go with that. I thought of the can of sardines and enlisted my husband to help. He was all jazzed about trying them.



Get all the components of the dish ready and then assemble.

1 loaf bread, thinly sliced, Ciabatta or baguette style
1 fresh garlic clove
Juice of 1/2 Lemon
Sea Salt
1 jar roasted red peppers, well drained, and cut into bite size pieces
1 tbsp capers
Very good quality olive oil
1/2 half a white onion

Prepare the sardines. Open the sardines and dump the can upside down on to a plate and separate them. They are very delicate so be careful. They were packed only in olive oil, and there was quite a bit of it, so I got rid of a some of it. Then I took half a lemon and gave them a little dressing. We sampled a tiny bit and found that they needed salt. A sprinkling of good quality salt made all the difference.
Slice the white onion in very thin slices.
Drain the peppers and slice into bite size pieces.
Drain the capers.

Brush the bread with olive oil, and bake in oven only until they start to turn slightly brown. Depending on your oven this might take 5 to 10 minutes. (I have also used my toaster oven for this if I am only making a few.) Immediately upon removing the crostini from the oven take the garlic clove and brush over the toasts. The heat will cause the garlic to melt on the bread.

Next top with all your ingredients, the sardines, capers, peppers. Once they are all assembled drizzle very lightly with a little fresh olive oil.
There are lots of strong flavors going on there. I hope you enjoy them!

Sunday, May 9, 2010

Risotto with Artichoke and Lemon



Risotto. Gotta love it.


It can be made so many different ways. Risotto with mushrooms, seafood, broccoli, it is all based around arborio or carnaroli rice. Carnaroli can be found in Italian markets, or ordered on-line, while arborio is readily available in most supermarkets and Trader Joe's. I use the arborio on a regular basis because it is easy to find. It has become a staple in my pantry. The Carnaroli I pick up when I go to the Italian market, which is rare, maybe every few months. I recently bought some to make a special dish from Venice, using fresh shrimp, and had some left over that I used in this dish.

Even though artichokes are in season right now I did not use them. I find that the frozen or jarred are just fine for some dishes. In this case I used the jarred. If made fresh, you must discard all the leaves on the outside of the choke to get to the heart, and it pains me to throw all that out. You can decide for yourself which type you want to use.

Ingredients:
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 small onion or 1/2 a large onion, diced
1 garlic clove, minced
1 cup carnaroli rice
1 tsp sea salt
1/4 tsp white pepper

1/4 tsp dried thyme
1 32 ounce can chicken broth
1 5 to 6 ounce jar artichoke hearts
Zest of one lemon
1 Tsp Lemon juice
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, freshly grated

Drain the artichoke hearts well. Set aside.

In small saucepan heat the chicken broth until hot, then reduce the heat but keep hot. It is important that any broth or water added to the dish be very hot.

In a heavy bottomed large saute pan heat the canola oil, add the onion and saute about 7 minutes. The onion should be more than soft but not yet browning. Add the garlic and stir for one minute. Add the rice, stirring for a few minutes to coat well and slightly toast.

Start adding the hot chicken broth one ladle at a time. This process will take about 20 minutes. Add a ladle of broth and stir, almost constantly, allowing all the broth to cook off before adding the next ladle.

Add the salt, pepper and thyme. Stir well. Add the artichokes but stir gently so they do not completely fall apart.

Once the rice is done, turn off the heat and add the lemon zest, lemon juice, and Parmesan cheese. To test for doneness you must taste it. Do not judge by time alone.

If the risotto gets too dry add a little hot water, that will loosen it up. And it is ready to serve.

The majority of the flavor should come from the zest which is why I love this dish so much. The combination of the zest and the artichoke is wonderful. You can hardly detect the other ingredients which is what you want. They are in the background, and add to the overall flavor, without you really knowing they are there.

Hum....what kind of wine should we serve with this dish?